Camel Wool Coat

I made this camel colored wool coat as an alternative to the usual black one I gravitate to in the  winter. I used Vogue pattern #8884, since I really wanted a double-breasted winter coat. I am very happy with the look and the fit of this pattern, and below are some notes about how I did it and things I added to make it as top quality as possible. 

The pattern recommended “nylon fusible knit” interfacing, so I used French Fuse interfacing on this coat, and I really like the amount of stability it gave it. On coats I made in the past, I often used horsehair canvas, but wasn’t always happy with the stiffness it added. French Fuse added body to the wool without restricting my ability to move around. 

The entire coat and belt are top stitched and edge stitched. Doing all of that was a pretty big time commitment, but it gives it an incredibly polished look. 

I made the belt loops with a double needle. This gave me an even row of stitching on the front and finished off the back at the same time (note: I got this idea from looking at a high - quality purchased coat I own, and while I would guess they used an overlocker, a twin needle accomplishes the same look). 

A coworker recommended adding a strip of the wool cut on the bias to the inside seam at top of the sleeve to help it hang better, and I think that does improve how it lies. I cut a piece that was about 3/4" by 4" and simply sewed it in the center top of the sleeve when I added it to the body of the coat.  

The lining is a lightweight charmeuse satin, as opposed to actual lining fabric. I have found doing this gives my coats better long-term durability. And ALWAYS avoid acetate lining - it falls apart after a rather short amount of time and then needs to be replaced. 

I love making wool coats (my first major sewing project was a suit coat, so I really do enjoy big projects like this!), but now I think I’m good for a while (or, at least next year!)… but I’m thinking a pea coat at some point in the future!